When people think of the Caribbean, they usually picture white sand beaches, all-inclusive resorts, and days spent lying next to a pool with a cocktail in hand. But, Dominica is very different to that.
I spent a few days road-tripping around the island, and honestly, it felt nothing like the Caribbean destinations I’m used to visiting. Instead of giant resorts and crowded beaches, I found winding mountain roads, waterfalls hidden in the rainforest, tiny villages, and slow laid back life.
What surprised me most was how remote the island felt. I’d visited several Caribbean islands before arriving, and I expected Dominica to be similar. It wasn’t. At times it felt more like a jungle-covered adventure destination than a typical Caribbean island. The interior as they call it in Dominica, felt especially adventurous. Driving through it there were dense forest all around us and at times we could hear rivers nearby. It was pitch black at night, so we couldn’t see anything besides what was directly in front of us.
Most of my days were spent driving from one waterfall to another, hiking muddy trails, exploring Roseau and Mero where I stayed, and stopping at random viewpoints whenever something looked interesting and cool. Some places went beyond what I expected. Like the waterfalls and beautiful forested areas. Others were interesting but not worth going out of your way for. I didn’t particularly find some of the beaches amazing.
So rather than giving you a generic list of attractions, this guide is based entirely on my own experience. These are the places I visited, what I loved, what surprised me, and a few things I’d do differently if I returned.
The interactive map of Dominica below shows you the most popular places and attractions, like waterfalls, hikes and beaches. Read my articles on the best waterfalls in Dominica and this one day Dominica itinerary.
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My Experience visiting Dominica
We stayed near Mero on Dominica’s west coast and used a rental vehicle to explore the island. Having a vehicle gave us the freedom to visit waterfalls, beaches, Roseau and Portsmouth without taking public transport. Public transport isn’t very punctual and when you move around at night in rural areas it gets really hard. I recommend everyone to rent a car when coming to Dominica.
However, driving in Dominica was an experience by itself.
The island is mountainous, and many roads are narrow, dark and filled with sharp turns. We also encountered potholes and damaged sections of road almost everywhere. Driving during the day was manageable, but travelling at night was much more difficult because street lighting was limited in several areas. Honestly, in the interior, there were stretches of road for 20 minutes without a single light source.
The main lesson I took from the trip is that Dominica is best for travelers who enjoy adventure travel. Things like waterfalls, hiking, road trips and natural scenery. I would not choose it mainly for luxury resorts or perfect beaches.
Where to Stay in Dominica
One of the best places to stay in Dominica is in a place called Mero. This is where I stayed. There are many Airbnb’s in the mountains that honestly look like luxury villas. I stayed at Caribbean Seaview Apartments and the area was perfect. It’s on a hill so we had views of the entire beach from here. The beach is also in walking distance to Mero Beach. Mero beach is one of the best beaches in Dominica. It isn’t white sand and turquoise water, but it’s green and amazingly refreshing.
If you’d like to stay here or just check it out, this was our apartment in Mero.
Here’s a Map of the best places to stay in Dominica.
Rent a Car
Dominica is a really small and safe island. But the infrastructure here is not the most developed. That’s why I think renting a car is the best way to properly explore and to ensure you can go at your own pace and do exactly what you want when you want to do it.
You can rent cars directly from inside the airport, it’s separate from the main airport area. Just walk outside and you can find it. Everything in Dominica is affordable, even compared to other Caribbean islands.
Interactive Map of things to do in Dominica
Things to do in Dominica
Hiking to Waterfalls
I was shocked by how many 10/10 waterfalls and hikes there are in Dominica. Most of the Waterfalls in Dominica are very easily accessible. A short drive can take you to the start of the hikes and depending on which waterfall you visit it can be as short as a 15 minute hike to the actual waterfall. The best way to decide which waterfalls to go to is to first decide how long do you want to drive. For me, one hour driving to a waterfall was great. So, I opened google, searched for “waterfalls near me”, then put two or three of them into google maps.
You’ll realize that many of the waterfalls are in a small cluster very close to each other. So you can visit multiple waterfalls in the same direction easily and efficiently to maximize your time. This is one of the top things to do in Dominica for nature lovers.
Visit the Boiling Lake
Before visiting, I’d seen photos online and thought it looked interesting, but I didn’t fully appreciate how challenging the hike would be. You have to trek through Morne Trois Pitons National Park and can take anywhere from 6 to 8 hours round trip depending on your pace, weather conditions, and how long you spend at the lake itself.
The first thing that struck me was how muddy the trail was. The owner of the apartment we rented warned us not to wear our fancy hiking shoes because “the mud will eat them,” and honestly, she wasn’t wrong. Parts of the trail were steep, slippery, and covered in thick mud. Good footwear is a must.
What makes the hike so rewarding is that the scenery constantly changes. One minute you’re walking through dense rainforest, the next you’re crossing open valleys with views of the surrounding mountains and volcanic landscape. It felt like a proper adventure rather than just a walk to a viewpoint.
When we finally reached the lake, it was difficult to get good photos because clouds of steam constantly drift across the water. The lake itself is a strange grey-blue color and continuously bubbles from the volcanic activity below. It’s one of those places that looks impressive in photos but feels even more surreal when you’re actually standing there.
I was lucky that the trail wasn’t very crowded when I visited, but I’ve heard that can be very different when cruise ships are in port or during the busiest travel periods. Parking near the trailhead can also become a challenge later in the morning, so I’d recommend arriving as early as possible. Personally, I wouldn’t start any later than 9 AM.
The trail begins near Laudat, close to Titou Gorge, so it’s easy to combine both attractions into the same day. Most visitors hire a guide, and I’d recommend doing the same, especially if it’s your first time hiking the route.
There are facilities near the trailhead including food vendors, bathrooms, and places to buy snacks and drinks. Bring plenty of water though. Even on a cooler day, this hike is long and physically demanding.
If you’re reasonably fit and enjoy hiking, I think the Boiling Lake is one of the most unique things to do in Dominica. It’s challenging, muddy, and tiring, but it’s also one of those experiences you’ll still be talking about long after you leave the island.
Visit Mero Beach
Located just 5 minutes walk from our holiday rental, was Mero beach. This is one of the only beaches I’ve been to in Dominica. Mero beach was very lively in the day and at night. There were party boats, bars, restaurants and beachfront vendors. I really think Mero beach is one of the nicer ones in Dominica. This beach has dark volcanic sand and bright green water. The water itself was very calm and almost no wave activity, which makes it perfect for swimming and for little kids.
Just North of Mero beach is Salisbury Beach. A quieter and more peaceful beach than the typically crowded and lively Mero beach. I find the locals tend to visit this beach more to avoid tourist crowds.
There are many other beaches as well, but I didn’t get a chance to visit them all unfortunately.
Some of the other beaches are:
- Purple Turtle Beach: Accessible only by boat or a short hike, Purple Turtle Beach is a hidden gem on Dominica’s northern coast. It’s known for its unique purple-hued sands, which result from the presence of manganese deposits.
- Woodford Hill Beach: Located in the northeast, Woodford Hill Beach offers a quieter alternative to the island’s more popular beaches. Its rugged beauty and tranquil atmosphere make it a favorite among nature lovers and those seeking solitude.
- Scotts Head Beach: Nestled between the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean at the southern tip of Dominica, Scotts Head Beach offers breathtaking views and excellent snorkeling opportunities. It’s also a popular starting point for hiking to the nearby Scotts Head Peninsula.
Diving and Snorkeling at Champagne Reef
Champagne reef is located 20 minutes drive from the capital Roseau. People usually come here to dive and snorkel rather than sunbathe, due to the very rocky shore instead of typical sandy beaches. it is called Champagne Reef because of the bubbly water rising from the volcanic thermal springs on the ocean floor.
There’s a plethora of sea life in the reef. The vibrant coral reef is teeming with life such as Corals, sponges, reef sharks, sea turtles, Eels, octopuses, shrimp, crabs, lobsters, star fish. Tropical fish such as parrotfish, angel fish, sergeant majors and snapper.
Whether you’re diving or snorkeling, keep your eyes open for elusive sea horses. You’ll encounter bubbles coming from the ocean floor. I recommend bringing your GoPro strapped to your body to make stunning videos of the reef and it’s life.
Exploring Roseau and Portsmouth
My first day in Dominica was spent mostly in the capital, Roseau. Roseau is about a 20 minute drive south from where we stayed at Mero Beach. There isn’t much to see on the drive leading up to Roseau except maybe the beach coast that runs along the highway.
When you get to the heart of the city there will be some traffic at certain points, especially in the inner city. I struggled to find a place to park, but everywhere is in walking distance, so if you see a free parking spot, take it. I parked on Hillsborough street. I’d soon discover why a Roseau city tour should definitely be on everyone’s things to do in Dominica list.
First we walked down towards Hillsborough street to the shore basically and headed right on the riverbank. We arrived at a place called Roseau River Promenade.
This promenade was vibrant and bustling with activity. There was a long line of vendors just this one behind me. Big up Nelz Spot! These places would sell things like Cassava bread, Yaroa; which is fries, ground beef, tomato sauce, olive oil and ketchup, fried bake and fried chicken and “bush rum”.
Bush rum is a locally made over proof rum from local vendors and bars, infused with many different herbs and spices like garlic, ginger, honey, star anise, bay leaf, long leaf, mint etc. In the picture above we had a shot of the “spice” bush rum. It had a kick to it. God damn was it strong.
After this we went into a market called…”Market”. This was the busiest section of the entire city that I’ve seen. There were vendors selling produce all over the market. Inside and outside. There was karaoke going on in the inner area of the market. This was 10 o’clock in the morning by the way.
We also visited the city of Portsmouth for dinner. To me, this looked like the most developed and recreational area out of all the places we went. There were restaurants, bars, universities, shops and stores, etc, on the boulevard. Portsmouth is about 30 minutes from Mero and about 45 minutes form Roseau. We drove in the night, which was difficult due to the lack of street lights and smooth roads. Most of the roads in Dominica has a lot of potholes and collapsed sections, so be careful when driving.
We visited a restaurant called Steakhouse in Portsmouth at around 8:30pm. The food was amazing. They usually serve a wide variety of meats and sites, but this time they served mostly fish for the Easter holiday.
I hope that you found my adventure inspiring and you may consider visiting this nature capital of the Caribbean some time soon.
If you’re looking to explore, the resort arranges tours across the island with spa add-ons:
- Sulphur Rush – Boiling Lake hike + 1-hour custom massage (US$275)
- Cascading Adventures – Emerald Pool + Spanny Falls + aroma massage (US$170)
- Volcanic Mist – Victoria Falls + hot stone or bamboo massage (US$168)
- Nature’s Remedy – Wellness consultation + medicinal plant walk + herbal tea + DIY scrub (US$25)
For meals, the on-site Zamaan Restaurant serves fresh Dominican food with health-conscious options. You can eat indoors or on the patio with views of the ocean and river. For something more casual, the Leatherback Pool Bar serves lunch and drinks throughout the day. That’s ideal after a hike or for relaxing by the pool.
Rosalie Bay is not about luxury. It’s about space to breathe, time to slow down, and easy access to Dominica’s wild landscapes. This is the kind of place you come to for quiet, nature, and calm.
Besides the places on this list, I would actually just stay in an Airbnb
